At normal mash temp, without agitation, tannin extraction will be slow. If your pH gets low, isn't it already extracting the tannins we don't want, and how is bumping the pH up at that point solving the problem?Īs I noted above, you're starting with a reasonable guess to put the mash pH at least close to the ideal range.Īlso, it's the combination of pH >= 5.8 ("high" pH) and temp over 170☏ where more rapid extraction of tannins is a risk. Ferment cold for first week, raising temp 1 degree per day. Chill as close to 50 degrees as possible. Usually, little or no mash adjustment is needed if you use a water chemistry calculator to pre-adjust mash chemistry. This should bring Denver water profile (as defined by BeerSmith) to Ca102,Mg8,Na21,SO4108,Cl107,HCO3104 Acid addition to bring calculated pH below 5.3 Boil and add hops as instructed above. As soon as you can get a pH reading on a room temp sample, you should make any adjustment that is needed. Having a good way to chill the wort fast is good, such as a pre-frozen shot glass or steel cup, so you can make your adjustment as soon as possible. Next, you give the mash chemistry about 10 minutes to stabilize after you are fully doughed-in, and then check the pH of a room temp sample. I think there are tutorials for Bru'n Water on and (for the newest version of Bru'n Water), and /u/testingapril is a great resource. Each of them has a bit of a learning curve. I personally prefer Bru'n Water but others have had good experiences with Brewers Friend and EZ Water.
#BEERSMITH ESTIMATED MASH PH SOFTWARE#
The pH prediction software is fairly accurate for most mashes.
So I use mash chemistry/pH prediction software and pre-adjust.
I would never just mash in for a dark stout with my water and then wait 10-15 minutes to check the pH and adjust because I already know it's going to be far too acidic. So first, you need to make an estimate of the mash chemistry and make some reasonable adjustments to your strike water or mash.
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